O&B seems to be able to do no wrong. (We’re not complaining.) Their venues are always highly-honed and exemplary. Their food some of the best in the city. (Some might argue the best, but we’ll leave those debates to the foul-mouthed foodies.) And, of course, their chefs, cooks, service staff, and the like are all well-trained and courteous as can be. So when you’re invited to an intimate dinner to check out the evolution of one of O&B’s crown jewels – in this case the over 20-year-old JUMP in the Financial District – you RSVP in 60 seconds flat. We did, and here’s what we found out…
It’s Gotten a Facelift…
Thankfully the minds at O&B had the good sense not to call upon the injectors to the ‘stars’ who’ve turned the Real Housewives into late night fodder for their, shall we say, doll-like appearances. No, no. JUMP has had some au natural work done. Nothing is forced, rather the space has been updated with more inviting seating, a stunning whiskey wall, and some beautiful new fixtures. It still feels like a stalwart, but in a ‘Hey, have you had some work done?‘ whisper as opposed to an ‘OMG! Can you believe how much work she’s had done?!‘ behind-the-back scathe.
Hail to the Chief… er… Chef!
Yes, a new Chef de Cuisine is bouncing around the kitchen at JUMP. Paul Benallick used to be the CdC at Auberge du Pommier (another O&B palace of perfection) before he went trotting around the UK for half a decade cutting his teeth on the international culinary scene. He came back to Toronto where he worked like mad at places like $TOCK Restaurant in the Trump Tower before heading home to O&B. He’s renovating the menu much in the same vein as the space: natural flavours, a focus on the divinity of prime ingredients, and a reverence for the history of JUMP alongside a vision for its future.
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Nom, Nom, Nom
Oh yeah! We also ate some of the new nosh at this dinner… and by some, we mean we’re still full. Standing around the bar having cocktails (order the Maple Smoked Manhattan, FYI) we were treated to some of the new bar snacks like Scotch Eggs with spiced chicken sausage and a fiery sauce, and the Reuben Dumplings (yeah… Reuben sammy toppings stuffed in a dumpling) which we’re still salivating over. Once we sat down we had raw sliced Qualicum Bay Scallops with basil and fennel seeds and the famed Truffle Ricotta Gnocchi (which isn’t new but is good as ever). We had Poached West Coast Halibut and Roasted Australian Lamb Saddle – dusted with pistachio and livened up by a mint sauce. Then we had the White Chocolate Cheesecake, and we felt as though, in spite of all the horror in the world, peace amongst all living things could be had if sweet cheese wrapped in phyllo was a mandatory meal every day…