I have the hand/eye coordination of a blind, peg-legged yak. Needless to say, you won’t find me hustling the tables at King West hotspot SPiN. Why play a game you can’t win, after all…?

Now, were a concept bar like SPiN to introduce some other draws – say, a menu comprised of locally sourced, sustainable-where-possible ingredients – I might be tempted to accept invitations to gatherings with friends amidst “all the action” when normally I feign interest followed by declination slighted by circumstance.

Wait a minute…

SPiN has introduced a menu comprised of locally sourced, sustainable-where-possible ingredients. D’uh!

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Chef Jon Lovett’s kitchen is a workhorse of compromise; food need be one-handable so as to not interrupt a dizzying game of pong. Where he concedes no middle ground is with flavour: Sloppy Joes are made over with Ontario lamb shoulder; chips come in the form of crisped strips of vibrant vegetables; prawns (inland farmed, no less) are sizzled to perfection in garlic and Old Bay spice; jalapeno poppers are amped up with Atlantic rock crab; line-caught ahi tuna “in a can” trumps any tin you might march home from the five-and-dime. SPiN even gives the South a run with their chicken n’ waffles, presenting a platter of King Capon breast resting with battered triangles and just enough honey drizzle.

Even with the addition of this interesting – and well-priced, might I add – menu, I will not spar at the tables seeking glory at the hand of a paddle. I will, however, sit on one of the benches, watch your coats, purses, miscellanea, and order dish after dish of heightened bar bites.