7-years of Akira Back Toronto: a culinary landmark that flies under the radar, even as Nobu opens next door

Seven years ago (now nearly 8, since this article was originally published), Chef Akira Back brought his signature brand of innovative Japanese-Korean cuisine to Toronto, opening his namesake restaurant inside the Bisha Hotel. Since then, the restaurant has carved out its own legacy in the city’s competitive fine dining scene. Now, with its anniversary just behind him and a new chapter of Toronto’s dining landscape unfolding around him, Back reflects on the journey so far, his connection to the city, and what it means to have his name on the door.

A concept rooted in respect for Toronto

Unlike many celebrity chefs who replicate the same formula in every city, Akira Back’s approach has always been about tailoring each of his restaurants to fit its surroundings. “Every restaurant we open is unique because we want to respect the city,” he shared during our conversation at his Toronto location. He emphasized that the design and menu were intentionally curated to reflect the local culture, ensuring that Torontonians felt an authentic connection to the space.

His commitment to Toronto is evident not just in the restaurant’s ambiance, but also in its menu. While the core essence of his cuisine remains the same worldwide, he incorporates locally sourced ingredients, allowing the flavors to take on a uniquely Canadian identity. “The ingredients we use here are local, which makes the taste different. That’s why it works so well in Canada.”

Here’s a look inside Akira Back Toronto, designed by Studio Munge, inside the Bisha Toronto hotel

A truly unique design, with a great vibe any night you make it out.

Sustainability at the core

Beyond flavor and aesthetics, sustainability has been a growing pillar of Back’s culinary philosophy. “We’re big on sustainability—across all our locations,” he stated. With global seafood supplies under increasing strain, Back acknowledges the importance of responsible sourcing. “Back in the day, you could catch whatever you wanted. Now, we have to be really careful about what we buy and what we use.”

His emphasis on sustainability is not just about ensuring high-quality ingredients but also about making choices that align with a more ethical and forward-thinking food industry. This approach is something that has allowed his Toronto restaurant to maintain its reputation over the years, even as consumer expectations have evolved.

The Nobu factor: a full-circle moment

The timing of Akira Back Toronto’s seven-year milestone is particularly interesting given the recent opening of the Nobu Toronto restaurant—just steps away inside the newly launched Nobu Residences. Nobu was where Back first cut his teeth in the industry, making this development a poetic full-circle moment in his career.

Rather than seeing Nobu as competition, Back welcomes its arrival. “Personally, they open next door is a blessing for us, yeah, it’s a blessing. And it’s great because this area will be more busy,” says Chef Akira Back. While comparisons are inevitable, Back is quick to highlight the differences between his restaurant and his former training ground. “Our cuisines are different. Our vibes are different. Nobu is the OG—we all learned from them. But what we do here is something entirely our own.”

Despite his time at Nobu, Back never had a personal relationship with Chef Nobu Matsuhisa himself. “When I worked there, he was already huge,” he admitted. While he has always respected Matsuhisa, Back’s own trajectory has been about carving out his own identity rather than following directly in anyone’s footsteps.

A leadership style that defies tradition

One thing that has set Back apart from many chefs of his generation is his approach to leadership. Unlike the rigid, hierarchical structures of many traditional kitchens, he prioritizes accessibility and open communication with his team. “All my managers have my number,” he shared. “I want to be approachable. I want to be the kind of leader I wish I had back then.”

This philosophy has helped him build a sense of loyalty and longevity within his team. In fact, his head chef at the Toronto location has been with him for seven years, having previously worked alongside him in Korea. “Longevity speaks to how you run a business. It’s about relationships,” he said.

The menu that keeps guests coming back

Unlike many restaurants that feel the need to reinvent their menu frequently, Akira Back Toronto has maintained many of its original dishes since day one. “People don’t actually like change as much as they say they do,” he pointed out. “It’s like McDonald’s—you go there and order the same thing every time. The same applies to fine dining. Guests want the dishes they fell in love with.”

That said, the restaurant does introduce occasional new menu items, but always with intention. One of the highlights? A pizza dish inspired by Back’s mother. “It’s one of my favorites,” he shared, explaining that it’s not just about flavor but about storytelling. “Food is memory. It connects us to our past.”

The media dinner: a culinary showcase

To celebrate the restaurant’s milestone, Chef Akira Back hosted a media dinner that showcased some of the standout dishes from his menu:

• 1st course: Tuna & mushroom pizza / Toro caviar – A crispy tortilla base with fresh tuna and king oyster mushrooms, alongside the buttery richness of Toro caviar served in the Nazo 9 with French caviar.
• 2nd course: Grilled Alaskan king crab / Tuna tataki – The grilled king crab highlighted delicate flavors, while the tuna tataki, dressed with Nishiyama Machi Tosazu and shiso green oil, captured the essence of autumn.
• 3rd course: A5 wagyu tataki / Gal-bi lamb chop – The wagyu tataki, complemented by Japanese mustard miso and Parmigiano Reggiano snow, and the Gal-bi lamb chop glazed with Gal-bi sauce and topped with tomato concasse, delivered rich, fall-inspired flavors.
• 4th course: Show me the roll & Brother from another mother – Signature rolls featuring crispy shrimp tempura, spicy tuna, torched salmon belly, and an indulgent eel and foie gras combination.
• 5th course (dessert): Apple harumaki / Yuzu citrus curd – A dessert pairing that balanced comforting apple flavors with the bright zest of yuzu citrus curd.

A Michelin-worthy restaurant that flies under the radar

Despite the continued success of Akira Back Toronto, the restaurant often flies under the radar in the city’s fine dining scene. While Back’s locations in Istanbul, Dubai, and Paris have been recognized by the Michelin Guide, the Toronto restaurant has yet to receive that distinction. However, Chef Back insists that his goal is not about chasing accolades but about maintaining a consistent experience at all his namesake restaurants, ensuring that his guests around the world know what to expect when they walk through the door.

What’s next for Akira Back in Toronto?

With seven successful years behind him, Back remains committed to Toronto and its evolving food scene. With whispers of a potential new restaurant opening inside W Toronto, we’ve recently, confirms that his culinary impact on Toronto is far from done.

Later confirmed, that the concept will in fact be a TONO by Akira Back (as done in Doha), opening inside the newly renovated rooftop of the W Toronto hotel.

For now, Akira Back Toronto stands as a testament to his vision, passion, and commitment to excellence. Whether you’re a longtime fan or a newcomer, one thing remains clear—seven years in, the restaurant is still at the top of its game, offering an experience that is distinctly Akira Back, distinctly Toronto.

Originally published August 15, 2024, and interview on August 13th, recently updated following recent developments to include mention of upcoming restaurant opening.