You can’t miss Dorian Rahimzadeh when she enters a room. Better known as Dorian Who, the Toronto-based, Tehran-born fashion designer draws intrigued looks from strangers, immediately inspiring both conversation and compliments with her avant-garde style. Most of the time, this comprises her own dramatic creations. A rising star on the global fashion scene, Who won the Emerging Talent, Fashion award at the 2023 Canadian Art and Fashion (CAFA) Awards and is widely celebrated for her slow-made, season-less, and avant-garde streetwear that utilizes deadstock materials to create unique works of wearable art.
Since its launch in 2019, when she was working at a store and as a content creator, her Dorian Who brand – and her engaging Instagram account that showcases all of her stunning pieces – has attracted the attention of creatives and fashion lovers from around the world. Now, the designer works with some of the most recognizable brands globally on creative collaborations. Think: Nobu, Bombay Sapphire, and Puma. And she’s just getting started.
“I think one of the reasons big brands have started approaching me for collaborations is that I’m not trying to be another Dior, Gucci, or just another designer,” she says. “My work is truly authentic and different. I chose a more difficult path because when you start, it takes years to establish your signature in the industry. Many designers just want to sell, so they either copy others or don’t offer anything new. With so many designers out there, it’s incredibly competitive, and if you don’t bring something unique to the table, brands won’t be interested in working with you.”
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FENTY x PUMA Creeper Phatty x DORIAN WHO
Recently, Puma approached Who for collaboration who saw her customize a pair of FENTY X PUMA Creeper Phatty sneakers. “I was really excited because I’m a big fan of Puma and Fenty, and working with the Puma team on this collaboration felt surreal,” she says. “As a sneaker lover with a streetwear brand and a small business, we don’t have the capacity for large-scale production, so we haven’t developed a shoe line yet. Getting the chance to work on a shoe, especially with Fenty, one of my favourites, was absolutely incredible.”
The transformation of the shoes involved the bold addition of intricate silver hardware that covers the laces and adorns the toe and heel of the shoe. “They wanted this collaboration to be very authentic to me, so I aimed to make it super bold and different from anything people have seen before,” says Who, when asked about the most important design considerations in customizing the shoes. The shoes were launched as part of a back-to-school campaign – something that Who really wanted to incorporate into her content.
“I was a rebellious student, always getting into trouble, especially since I grew up in a strict environment,” says Who. “Schools in Iran were tough! They didn’t allow much freedom in what you could wear. So, I went all out with the content, channelling that rebellious energy. The concept was definitely inspired by the school-themed campaign Rihanna launched, but we brought it to life with a distinct Dorian Who twist.”
Through the entire collaboration, Who says she had full control over the design and content creation. “They allowed me to be exactly who I am, and they genuinely loved the concept,” says Who. This isn’t always the case, she reveals, and the collaborations don’t always go so smoothly.
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“I’ve had experiences where brands try to control your work, or it feels like they’re just using your name and social media audience while pretending to support you,” says Who. “They might constantly change your ideas or ask for something completely different from your style. Those situations can be very challenging, and I’ve learned to say no to many of them because, as a creator, I need to connect with my work and feel satisfied with the outcome. This Puma collaboration was one of my favourites because I had control over the design, they approved it without any changes, and I handled the creative direction for the content. It turned out great and went smoothly.”
As for the end product, the statement-making shoes are perfect for the boldly stylish set looking for something well beyond the typical casual sneaker. “I see a lot of sneakerheads looking for something different wearing this design,” says Who. “I can picture Rihanna in them! She launched the original Fenty Creepers and is known for rocking unique and standout pieces. What I’ve customized is actually very wearable; you can pair it with a minimal look or go all out with a maximal style like I do. Plus, it’s genderless, which is central to my work.”
“I stayed consistent with my style…”
Staying true to her work is something that will remain central to future brand collaborations for Who. “It’s very interesting, I’ve realized that when major brands reach out for collaborations, they often want the piece to reflect you and your work more than their own brand,” she says. “As an emerging artist, I sometimes try to align with their brand to make them happy, but I’ve found that they actually value and trust what I create. It’s truly priceless to see how they support and showcase your art. It’s not just about fulfilling a marketing role for them; they genuinely care about emerging artists like myself.”
As for emerging artists, Who’s greatest piece of advice is to stay true to their vision, despite external pressures to do otherwise. “When I started, I received a lot of negative feedback, but I was confident in my work,” she says. “I stayed consistent with my style to the point where people can now recognize my designs as Dorian Who from a distance. It’s not easy to create a signature in the fashion world, but if you believe in your work and are passionate enough, you’ll get there.”
