Nearly 20-years after opening Garde Manger, Chuck Hughes is still proving that passion, humility, and heart are the true ingredients of success.
t’s a quiet afternoon on Geary Avenue (despite the traffic to get there), one of those tucked-away Toronto pockets that feels industrial and almost forgotten—until you step inside and find yourself somewhere remarkable. We’re at General Public, one of the restaurants named to Air Canada’s 2025 Best New Restaurants longlist, and it’s easy to see why. The buzz, the craftsmanship, the care—it all feels like a snapshot of where Canadian dining is headed.
Across the table from me sits Chef Chuck Hughes—television personality, restaurateur, proud Montrealer, and, as I quickly realize, one of the most genuine people in the industry. We’re sharing a few dishes—the Snails & Mushrooms, the Chicken Club, the popcorn clams—and what starts as a conversation about Air Canada’s annual culinary ranking turns into something much deeper: a reflection on food, fatherhood, sobriety, and what it really takes to build a restaurant that lasts.
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The evolution of a Canadian icon
Hughes has been a household name since the mid-2000s, when his Old Montreal restaurant Garde Manger became a cult favourite. Opened in June 2006 with partners Kyle Marshall, Tim Rozon, and Jessica Midlash, it anchored what would become the Crown Salt family of restaurants.
Nearly two decades later, he’s still proud of that origin story—but he’s not the same chef who used to man the line until 2 a.m. In a 2011 interview with Toronto Life, Hughes admitted he’d had to step away from cooking service because his presence was a distraction. “It’s hard—the guys on the line don’t want to cook with me because I’m always doing something else, and then the clients suffer,” he said at the time.
Today, he still spends plenty of time at Garde Manger when he’s in town—but you’re more likely to catch him washing dishes, resetting tables, or greeting regulars than sweating over a grill. “I love every aspect of it,” he tells me between bites. “I love going to a table to talk to guests. I love washing dishes. I love making sure the front of house has their cutlery ready. I just love the grind of it.”
Behind the longlist
That same spirit—the grind, the gratitude, the honesty—is why Hughes has become the face of Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants program. Now in its 24th year, the annual list celebrates the country’s most exciting new culinary voices.
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“This isn’t just a list of the best restaurants,”
Chef Chuck Hughes
“This isn’t just a list of the best restaurants,” he says. “It’s about the best new—people doing something really good, really fast.”
For him, the recognition goes beyond awards. It’s about connection. “I remember being mentioned once, back in the day, and it was huge,” he says. “Even a small nod can change everything for a young chef.”
Hughes believes the longlist represents more than trend-spotting—it’s proof that Canadian food has never been stronger. “Food’s never been better in Canada,” he says. “And it’s not just Montreal, Toronto, Vancouver anymore. You’ve got great spots in St. John’s, Edmonton, Victoria—it’s everywhere.”
The next generation of Canadian chefs
At 48, Hughes is both a mentor and a student of the new culinary generation. “When I started, I had one cookbook and no Instagram,” he laughs. “Now chefs have access to the best menus in the world at their fingertips. They’re just better equipped.”
That’s not a bad thing, he insists. “It keeps me inspired. Every time I try something new, I learn something new. It keeps me excited about food.”
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His admiration for younger chefs is matched only by his reverence for the ingredients that define this country. From PEI oysters to Matane shrimp, he lights up when talking about Canadian produce. “We have the best of the best,” he says. “And we’re finally celebrating it ourselves instead of sending it all elsewhere.”
A chef, a father, a realist
The most striking thing about Chuck isn’t his résumé—it’s his honesty. He’s sober nearly 20 years, and he’s open about the realities of balancing work and family.
“It’s controversial to say, but it’s hard to be the best chef and the best dad,” he admits. “I had to give away a little bit of my work life to focus on my kids. Right now that’s important. Later, they’ll need me differently, but they’ll know I was there.”
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Between restaurant work, hosting Air Canada’s Best New Restaurants, and filming Chuck & the First People’s Kitchen—his series exploring Indigenous food culture—he still manages to fly home to Montreal for his sons’ hockey practice. “Life’s not perfect,” he says. “But my kids see me happy doing what I love, and that’s the best lesson I can give them.”
What makes a restaurant truly great?
So what separates a good restaurant from a great one? Hughes doesn’t hesitate: “Service. You can have the nicest plates and the best playlist, but if the service isn’t there, I won’t go back. It’s about honesty, hospitality, and heart.”
That mindset has carried him through nearly two decades of ownership. “At first, I wanted everyone to know I owned the restaurant,” he laughs. “Now I want everyone who works there to feel like they own it too.”
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Crafting the future, one plate at a time
Meeting Chuck Hughes feels like meeting the embodiment of what Canadian cuisine has become—humble, hardworking, and heart-first. From Montreal’s cobblestone streets to Toronto’s industrial corridors, he’s built more than restaurants; he’s built community.
And yet, there’s an undeniable sense he still hasn’t received the full recognition he deserves. His unwavering commitment to this country’s culinary landscape, his advocacy for Indigenous cuisine through Chuck & the First People’s Kitchen, and his influence as a mentor all feel like the makings of a chef worthy of the Ordre national du Québec—and perhaps even the Order of Canada.
For now, though, he’s content to keep doing what he loves—one perfectly seared scallop, one hockey practice, and one honest conversation at a time.
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Fun facts: Rapid-fire with Chuck Hughes
- First ingredient you reach for: “Butter. And salt.”
- Underrated Canadian ingredient: “All of them. From Arctic char to PEI oysters, we’ve got the best.”
- Harder to resist: “Lemon meringue pie. It’s a lost art.”
- One dish forever: “Alaskan king crab—or french fries.”
- Most nerve-wracking: “Opening night at my restaurant. Iron Chef was a blur.”
- Bucket-list destination: “New Zealand. Or further into the Canadian Arctic.”
- If not a chef: “Probably marketing or architecture. Something creative—but no desk.”
Stay tuned for our recap from the event next month announcing the final list, where we’ll bring you the inside scoop.
