Trio Ristorante may not be one of those much talked about downtown Toronto restaurants, but Midtowners in the know have been singing its praises for years. The romantically lit two-story restaurant on Yonge Street has been serving up a tantalizing mix of traditional Italiano for nearly 8 years.
Owner Eduardo Beccati hails from Calabria in Southern Italy, and describes his fourth restaurant as a family oriented place for great pizza and handmade pasta. The mix of tables reflects his statement, though don’t cross Trio off your date night list.
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The sweet aroma of roasted garlic from their wood oven-baked bread is the first thing to hit my nose when I walk in. It’s a perfect compliment to the windowed wine cellar, the flickering candlelight, and the Italian love songs. It makes me feel like I’m back in the “old country.”
We start with a trio (appropriately) of breaded calamari and two of the day’s specials: a caprese salad with imported Italian buffalo mozzarella, and a delicate beet carpaccio salad with spinach, goat cheese, pickled onions and pine nuts. Eduardo tells me that there’s always something new on special. With 75% of his customer base comprised of returning customers – many whom he knows by name – he wants to keep the menu exciting for everyone.
I’d advise against simply coming in for quick pizza. Trio lends itself to those lengthy, multi-course meals that Italy is famous for. It’s a relaxing environment where our 3-hour meal didn’t feel very long.
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Many of their pastas are made in-house by hand, though don’t ignore their Orecchiette alla Barese. While the little shell noodles aren’t rolled-out on site, they pair perfectly with toothsome, fresh Italian sausage, the bittersweet contrast of sautéed rapini and cherry tomatoes, and a light olive oil and garlic sauce.
That said, their soft, hand-made cappellacci stuffed with tender veal cheek and topped with a creamy tomato sauce and truffle oil may have been the dish of the night.
Bite my tongue, as I remember each bite of the French cut veal chop. Their corn-fed Alberta veal is aged 28-30 days and comes in gut-busting 16 to 18-ounce portions. It’s served on a wood board for a reason.
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Take a few more sips of wine, or, better yet, order a glass of limoncello or grappa as you culminate a satisfying marathon feast with a smooth bite of dolce di latte. Creamy ricotta from Italy is whipped with a touch of crème and condensed milk, and served with a dash of sour cherry syrup on top and fresh berries. This is one special that I hope would become a mainstay.
As I laboriously rise from my seat to shake Eduardo’s hand, I feel like this is something that all the regulars do at the end of the meal, a thanks to the Don himself – I wonder why I hadn’t dined here before. Truth be told, there are a lot of terrific Italian eateries around Toronto, now I just have a new one to add to the roster.
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Have you checked out Trio Ristorante yet? Let us know your thoughts in the comments below or tweet us @ViewTheVibe.